DK Eyewitness Project Editor Rachel Laidler walks us through her Italian rail-tripping adventure, a week-long getaway that pulled in at Florence, Bologna, Rome and Naples.
What’s not to love about Italy? Incredible art and architecture, sublime food and wine, and more history than you can shake a stick at. It’s no surprise then, that when flicking through DK Eyewitness’ Europe by Train, I kept returning to the Italian rail trips – especially the “Best of Italy”, which rolled through cities like Florence and Naples. The appeal of train travel is two fold: it’s both greener than flying and much more relaxed (after all, you can’t watch the Italian countryside flash from a plane window, can you?).
My plan was to spend a bit of time with my partner in Tuscany, before heading off solo to spend a week exploring Bologna, Rome and Naples. Organising everything was surprisingly easy: I planned out my route using Google Maps and booked my train travel in advance via Trainline, meaning that all of my tickets were in one place.
If you’re travelling for a longer period of time or making more stops, then getting an Interrail ticket is a good shout (plus, they also have a handy planning map on their website). Suffice to say, it wasn’t long before I’d booked everything, packed my suitcase and had taken off on a summer city-hopping adventure.
What’s not to love about Italy? Incredible art and architecture, sublime food and wine, and more history than you can shake a stick at. It’s no surprise then, that when flicking through DK Eyewitness’ Europe by Train, I kept returning to the Italian rail trips – especially the “Best of Italy”, which rolled through cities like Florence and Naples. The appeal of train travel is two fold: it’s both greener than flying and much more relaxed (after all, you can’t watch the Italian countryside flash from a plane window, can you?).
My plan was to spend a bit of time with my partner in Tuscany, before heading off solo to spend a week exploring Bologna, Rome and Naples. Organising everything was surprisingly easy: I planned out my route using Google Maps and booked my train travel in advance via Trainline, meaning that all of my tickets were in one place.
If you’re travelling for a longer period of time or making more stops, then getting an Interrail ticket is a good shout (plus, they also have a handy planning map on their website). Suffice to say, it wasn’t long before I’d booked everything, packed my suitcase and had taken off on a summer city-hopping adventure.
Florence
What better place to start a rail journey through Italy than in Florence, capital of Tuscany and a hot-bed of spectacular art and architecture. Having a couple of days to play with, we decided to hit up the Galleria degli Uffizi first, a vast art museum known for its spectacular collection of Renaissance art – fitting, really, as Florence was the birthplace of this cultural movement.
Among the many masterpieces we glimpsed were “Doni Tondo” by Michelangelo, the only panel painting by the famous painter in existence, and “The Birth of Venus” by Botticelli, a striking piece that you’ll see reproduced on countless postcards across the city.
A morning spent gazing at so much art required a good breakfast, so before hitting up the Uffizi we’d fueled ourselves at Ditta Artigianale Neri. This cute coffee shop, a handy 5-minute walk from the gallery, is all about craft coffee, big brunch-style plates and sublime pastries.
The rest of our time in Florence was spent taking in the grandeur of the Pitti Palace and tranquillity of the Boboli Gardens, as well as amazing views of the city from hillside Piazzale Michelangelo – oh, and ordering a tipple or two from a wine window, of course. Known as buchette del vino (little wine doors), these small arched openings were used during the time of the Bubonic Plague to sell wine to thirsty Florentines. They made a comeback during the pandemic, and today several spots across the city continue to operate, including our pick, Babae.
Among the many masterpieces we glimpsed were “Doni Tondo” by Michelangelo, the only panel painting by the famous painter in existence, and “The Birth of Venus” by Botticelli, a striking piece that you’ll see reproduced on countless postcards across the city.
A morning spent gazing at so much art required a good breakfast, so before hitting up the Uffizi we’d fueled ourselves at Ditta Artigianale Neri. This cute coffee shop, a handy 5-minute walk from the gallery, is all about craft coffee, big brunch-style plates and sublime pastries.
The rest of our time in Florence was spent taking in the grandeur of the Pitti Palace and tranquillity of the Boboli Gardens, as well as amazing views of the city from hillside Piazzale Michelangelo – oh, and ordering a tipple or two from a wine window, of course. Known as buchette del vino (little wine doors), these small arched openings were used during the time of the Bubonic Plague to sell wine to thirsty Florentines. They made a comeback during the pandemic, and today several spots across the city continue to operate, including our pick, Babae.
Bologna
Before I knew it, it was time to say arrivederci to my travel buddy and hop on the train to Bologna. Getting sorted at the station was a breeze – a quick scan of my e-ticket and I was through the barriers, hopping onboard and settling into a comfy seat. And the best thing? Thanks to Italy’s high-speed trains, it was under 40 minutes to reach Bologna, leaving me more time for exploring once there – and wow, did I need it.
This university town may be more diminutive than the likes of Florence, but it still packs a punch. There’s so much to do here, from admiring the many beautiful portici (porticoes) that line the streets to uncovering an old-school anatomical theatre in the Biblioteca Comunale dell'Archiginnasio.
You can also climb the Torre degli Asinelli, one of 24 medieval towers that dot the city. There are 498 steps to reach the top, most of them up a wooden staircase clamped straight onto the tower wall. It was a real test for my vertigo-afflicted self, but the views across the red-roofs of the city were incredible.
But I wasn’t just in Bologna to sightsee – I was here to eat. The city is famed for its incredible cuisine, whether it’s wonderfully rich ragu or comforting tortellini in brodo (meat-filled pasta served in chicken broth). A great place to start is the Quadrilatero in the historic centre, an area of narrow streets packed with restaurants, delis and markets offering countless options to tickle the tastebuds.
My highlight? The tigelle montanare at Zerocinquantino. These round little flatbreads were filled with finely sliced mortadella and creamy squacquerone cheese, and were perfectly complimented by a glass of the region’s sparkling red wine. Outside of the Quadrilatero, I’d thoroughly recommend the ragu sandwiches served up by the aptly named Ragū, the pizza slices at Forno Brisa and the creamy gelato offered by Gelateria Delle Moline (give the fig jam flavour a go, it’s incredible).
This university town may be more diminutive than the likes of Florence, but it still packs a punch. There’s so much to do here, from admiring the many beautiful portici (porticoes) that line the streets to uncovering an old-school anatomical theatre in the Biblioteca Comunale dell'Archiginnasio.
You can also climb the Torre degli Asinelli, one of 24 medieval towers that dot the city. There are 498 steps to reach the top, most of them up a wooden staircase clamped straight onto the tower wall. It was a real test for my vertigo-afflicted self, but the views across the red-roofs of the city were incredible.
But I wasn’t just in Bologna to sightsee – I was here to eat. The city is famed for its incredible cuisine, whether it’s wonderfully rich ragu or comforting tortellini in brodo (meat-filled pasta served in chicken broth). A great place to start is the Quadrilatero in the historic centre, an area of narrow streets packed with restaurants, delis and markets offering countless options to tickle the tastebuds.
My highlight? The tigelle montanare at Zerocinquantino. These round little flatbreads were filled with finely sliced mortadella and creamy squacquerone cheese, and were perfectly complimented by a glass of the region’s sparkling red wine. Outside of the Quadrilatero, I’d thoroughly recommend the ragu sandwiches served up by the aptly named Ragū, the pizza slices at Forno Brisa and the creamy gelato offered by Gelateria Delle Moline (give the fig jam flavour a go, it’s incredible).
Rome
A day or so later, I was back at Bologna Centrale and jumping on a train to Rome. A word of advice: make sure to arrive early, as the train station is big and it can be a bit of a walk to your platform. Once you’re on the train, though, the faster services will whisk you to the Italian capital in just over 2 hours; my journey was quick, comfortable and without any delays.
This wasn’t my first time in Rome: I’d visited the city as a backpacker over 10 years before, while on an interrailing trip through Europe. The Eternal City was just how I remembered it: packed with history and culture, and oozing that dolce vita lifestyle. Alongside hitting up the likes of the Pantheon and the Colosseum, I spent much of my time simply strolling through the city; wandering through bohemian Trastevere, ambling along paths in the leafy Villa Borghese or climbing Janiculum Hill to take in the skyline.
But my favourite on-foot experience was Lock Your Tour’s nighttime walking tour. As we wound through the city centre, our guides Isuf and Drita brought Rome to life with fantastic storytelling, easygoing humour and the occasional quiz to keep us on our toes.
After a couple of days in Rome, it was time to head south to Naples. The journey there was comfortable and speedy – something that had become a running theme with my Italian rail trip. Just an hour and a quarter later, I had arrived.
This wasn’t my first time in Rome: I’d visited the city as a backpacker over 10 years before, while on an interrailing trip through Europe. The Eternal City was just how I remembered it: packed with history and culture, and oozing that dolce vita lifestyle. Alongside hitting up the likes of the Pantheon and the Colosseum, I spent much of my time simply strolling through the city; wandering through bohemian Trastevere, ambling along paths in the leafy Villa Borghese or climbing Janiculum Hill to take in the skyline.
But my favourite on-foot experience was Lock Your Tour’s nighttime walking tour. As we wound through the city centre, our guides Isuf and Drita brought Rome to life with fantastic storytelling, easygoing humour and the occasional quiz to keep us on our toes.
After a couple of days in Rome, it was time to head south to Naples. The journey there was comfortable and speedy – something that had become a running theme with my Italian rail trip. Just an hour and a quarter later, I had arrived.
Naples
Italy’s third largest city has a very different vibe to the likes of Bologna and Rome, with a sort of friendly chaos greeting me as soon as I stepped off the train. My first day here was spent exploring the Centro Storico (historic centre) and Quartieri Spagnoli, two noisy, fast-paced neighbourhoods that adjoin one another.
Here, Vespas whizz down narrow streets, which are lined with shops selling everything from piping-hot Napolitan pizza to beautifully crafted nativity scenes. Adding to the colour was the street art decorating many a wall, including countless depictions of Diego Maradona. The Argentine football player is hailed as a local hero, partly because he helped SSC Napoli, the city’s football team, win several competitions, and partly because he embraced Neapolitan culture, including learning the local dialect.
Luckily, when the city’s cacophony got too much, there were plenty of places to retreat to, including the lofty Castel Sant’Elmo, a hilltop castle offering incredible views over the city and Mount Vesuvius, and leafy Vomero, a quieter neighbourhood known for its cool cafes and bars. My personal favourite was the web of ancient ruins that lie beneath San Lorenzo Maggiore, a medieval basilica in the heart of the Centro Storico.
Here, a 1- hour tour took me along Roman streets lined by the remains of laundries, restaurants and bakeries, all of which once formed a section of the city’s Roman market. Amazingly, these ruins are built on even older Greek foundations (Naples was founded by the Greeks in the 8th century BCE), glimpses of which can still be spied beneath the Roman buildings.
Another great thing about Naples? You’re spoilt for choice with day trips. An hour or so by ferry will take you to islands like Ischia and Procida, while it’s just a short train ride to the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Oh, and further south? Only the world-famous Amalfi Coast, lined with pretty towns like Positano and Minori.
I decided to opt for the glamorous isle of Capri – a 1-hour ferry ride from Naples – to go on a kayaking trip with Capri Hydro. Setting off from Spiaggia di Marina Piccola, on the island’s south coast, our group of trusty kayakers glided towards the Faraglioni, a trio of rocks that jut spectacularly out of the ocean, pausing here and there to nip into sunlit grottoes or take a refreshing dip in the water. I have say that bobbing on unbelievably sapphire seas, while looking up at the soaring cliffs of Capri, was the best way to end my Italian rail adventure.
So, how did I find rail-tripping through Italy? Pretty amazing. After all, travelling by train was incredibly smooth and speedy, with not a hiccup in sight; plus, the train’s were super-comfortable, meaning I could sit back and relax as I sped between destinations. If you’re thinking of taking a similar sort of trip, I’d encourage you to do it in a heartbeat.
Here, Vespas whizz down narrow streets, which are lined with shops selling everything from piping-hot Napolitan pizza to beautifully crafted nativity scenes. Adding to the colour was the street art decorating many a wall, including countless depictions of Diego Maradona. The Argentine football player is hailed as a local hero, partly because he helped SSC Napoli, the city’s football team, win several competitions, and partly because he embraced Neapolitan culture, including learning the local dialect.
Luckily, when the city’s cacophony got too much, there were plenty of places to retreat to, including the lofty Castel Sant’Elmo, a hilltop castle offering incredible views over the city and Mount Vesuvius, and leafy Vomero, a quieter neighbourhood known for its cool cafes and bars. My personal favourite was the web of ancient ruins that lie beneath San Lorenzo Maggiore, a medieval basilica in the heart of the Centro Storico.
Here, a 1- hour tour took me along Roman streets lined by the remains of laundries, restaurants and bakeries, all of which once formed a section of the city’s Roman market. Amazingly, these ruins are built on even older Greek foundations (Naples was founded by the Greeks in the 8th century BCE), glimpses of which can still be spied beneath the Roman buildings.
Another great thing about Naples? You’re spoilt for choice with day trips. An hour or so by ferry will take you to islands like Ischia and Procida, while it’s just a short train ride to the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Oh, and further south? Only the world-famous Amalfi Coast, lined with pretty towns like Positano and Minori.
I decided to opt for the glamorous isle of Capri – a 1-hour ferry ride from Naples – to go on a kayaking trip with Capri Hydro. Setting off from Spiaggia di Marina Piccola, on the island’s south coast, our group of trusty kayakers glided towards the Faraglioni, a trio of rocks that jut spectacularly out of the ocean, pausing here and there to nip into sunlit grottoes or take a refreshing dip in the water. I have say that bobbing on unbelievably sapphire seas, while looking up at the soaring cliffs of Capri, was the best way to end my Italian rail adventure.
So, how did I find rail-tripping through Italy? Pretty amazing. After all, travelling by train was incredibly smooth and speedy, with not a hiccup in sight; plus, the train’s were super-comfortable, meaning I could sit back and relax as I sped between destinations. If you’re thinking of taking a similar sort of trip, I’d encourage you to do it in a heartbeat.
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