Ancient ports and deserted beaches: a road trip across Northern Corsica
A world apart from the ritzy highlife of the French Riviera, Northern Corsica is a tranquil and family-friendly holiday destination. The roads connecting Erbalunga and Calvi, where this route begins and ends, are generally uncluttered, making for a relaxing and scenic journey across the island’s loveliest country lanes. You’ll take in some of the Mediterranean’s most unspoiled beaches, discover the island’s artisan souvenirs and sample Corsica’s unique cuisine.
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This sleepy fishing hamlet is the perfect spot to get acquainted with Corsican culture while snacking, sipping and generally unwinding. The harbour is lined with several seafood restaurants, including Le Pirate, where locally sourced ingredients are served with meticulous presentation.
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Bastia
Bastia old city center, lighthouse and harbour. Credit: Dreamstime.com / Eva Bocek
Bastia exudes a distinct urban air that contrasts with many of Corsica’s resort towns. There’s plenty to do here: explore the bars and restaurants lining the Old Port, wander along the citadel’s rampart walls or visit Place de l'Hôtel de Ville’s morning produce market. With its antique tiles and period furniture, Hotel Central makes for a romantic stay.
Nestled between the wine-producing Patrimonio Valley and the sandy white beaches of the Désert des Agriates, Saint-Florent is an animated port town. Brightly coloured houses line the harbour and a lively promenade with boutiques, restaurants and cafés stays open until late in summer. For beautiful views over the Golfe de Saint-Florent, make the short hike up to the citadel just before sunset.
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Désert des Agriates
Ostriconi beach. Credit: Dreamstime.com / Jon Ingall
Featuring some of the most beautiful beaches in Northern Corsica, Désert des Agriates is a must-visit. A ferry from Saint-Florent will drop you on the shimmering white sands of Plage du Lodo. From here you can walk to the unspoiled turquoise shores of Plage de Saleccia, where you can pick out an exclusive patch of paradise. Meanwhile, wild and windswept Plage de l’Ostriconi is renowned for its rugged beauty.
The main draw here is a 2km (1-mile) sandy beach which is lined with a number of restaurants and cafés. The bay is also a haven for activities such as wind-surfing and snorkeling. Just 5 minutes on foot from the town centre, Camping de la Plage is a family-friendly, inexpensive campsite where tents and caravans sit under a 100-year-old wood. Bungalows and small studio cabins are also available for rent.
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Strada di l’Artigiani
Alley in Pigna. Credit: Dreamstime.com / Holger Karius
Officially designated as the Strada di l’Artigiani in 1995, this “Artisans' Road” was established to preserve and encourage the creation of traditional Corsican crafts. Pigna, at the route’s centre, is filled with workshops producing musical instruments and sculptures. Nearby, pretty Corbara is particularly famed for its artistic sandstone pottery, original tableware and crockery. Meanwhile, Lumio boasts cutlery-makers, a small-family run production of essential oils and wineries
Dominated by the massive Genoese citadel overlooking the harbour, Calvi is half military town, half holiday resort and one of Corsica’s most lively spots. During the summer, the small harbour is teeming with ferries and yachts from mainland France. Spend an afternoon watching the boats come and go from an outdoor table along the town’s most renowned promenade, the Quai Landry.
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