What to eat in Tokyo (that isn’t sushi)

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Sushi has taken the world by storm. You probably already know how you feel about it – especially if you’re not a fan of raw fish.

But even if you love nothing more than sweet inari-zushi or fresh, creamy scallop nigiri, it would be a shame to limit your culinary adventures in Tokyo to just sushi. After all, it’s one of the world’s most diverse and exciting places to eat, with everything from high-end restaurants – Tokyo has more Michelin stars than any other city – to standing-only counters serving harried commuters.

The capital of Japan is bursting with delicious dishes every visitor should try. Here are just a few of our favourite Japanese foods to look out for.

Oyakodon

This simple, filling dish is classic Japanese comfort food, a bowl of fragrant rice topped with chicken, egg and onions cooked in a light sauce. The combination of chicken and egg led to the deliciously dark-humoured name, which translates to “parent and child bowl”. As with so many Japanese dishes, this simple meal has been perfected over generations. In the case of Tamahide, near Tokyo’s Nihonbashi, they’ve been honing their recipe since the restaurant opened in 1760.

Okonomiyaki

This savoury pancake comes in many different varieties, as implied by the name – literally “grilled whatever-you’d-like”. The base is a thick batter mixed with shredded cabbage, to which you can add anything from mochi to seafood, pork belly, or even cheese. Once it’s cooked, you cover it in soy- and Worcestershire-based okonomi sauce, Kewpie mayonnaise, seaweed and bonito flakes. For the full experience, choose a restaurant where you cook it yourself on a hot plate at the table – Harajuku’s artsy Sakura-tei is a good option.

This type of okonomiyaki is known as Osaka-style, and though it’s the most common, it’s not the only one. You may also come across Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, which comprises a thin layer of batter, fried noodles, omelette, shredded cabbage and any extras you fancy, topped with okonomi sauce and seaweed. Grab a counter seat at Hanako in Iidabashi to watch the chef prepare this layered dish right in front of you.

Monjayaki

Tokyo traditionally has its own take on okonomiyaki, called monjayaki. It’s much gloopier than its pancake-like cousin – so much so that you eat it with a tiny spatula rather than chopsticks. Take your pick of the restaurants on Monja Street in Tokyo Bay to try this local speciality.

Tempura

Deliciously crispy tempura – essentially deep-fried foods in a light batter – has firmly made the leap onto overseas menus. But it’s in Tokyo that you can try some of the very best in the world. Tempura Kondo, located in glitzy Ginza, has two Michelin stars and is known for its feather-light batter and its tender sweet potato tempura.

Udon

Though not as well known as ramen overseas, udon is just as popular in Japan. The thick, chewy wheat noodles are served in a variety of ways, but you’ll usually come across one of four general styles: cold with dipping sauce; in a light broth, often with sides or toppings; in a curry soup; and stir-fried as yaki-udon.

Cheap and cheerful Tokyo Mentsudan in Shinjuku is a great place to try udon, with innumerable toppings and sides on the menu. You’d be hard pressed to spend over ¥1000, even with a large portion and a small mountain of tempura on the side.

Wagashi

These traditional Japanese sweets come in all shapes and sizes. Some of the most popular are daifuku, soft rice cakes filled with anything from sweet red bean paste to a whole strawberry; dango, chewy rice cakes on skewers often with a sweet glaze; and dorayaki, fillings like bean paste or cream sandwiched between two pancakes.

Among the most elaborate are namagashi, usually served at tea ceremonies. These artistic sweets are shaped by hand into delicately coloured leaves, flowers and other seasonal motifs. Try a cup of matcha and beautiful wagashi at Nakajima no Ochaya, a tearoom situated on the water at Hama Rikyu gardens, in Tokyo Bay.

Festival foods

Whether you time your visit to coincide with a big matsuri (festival) or stumble across one of the innumerable neighbourhood ones, be sure to browse the stalls for your dinner. Every food stand will specialise in one or two items – most of them grilled or fried, both indicated by “yaki” in Japanese.

Ease in with more recognisable dishes like yakisoba (fried noodles) and yakitori (chicken skewers). Or if you’re feeling adventurous, go straight for the takoyaki (octopus in batter), yaki-mochi (fried glutinous rice cakes) or ika-yaki (grilled, skewered squid with a soy glaze). And for dessert? Try kakigori (shaved ice with palpitation-inducingly sweet syrups), crunchy ringo-ame (toffee apples – strawberries and other fruits are also popular) or the ever-popular choco-bananas.