Home to la dolce vita, where better to spend a leisurely weekend break than in Rome? It may be chock-full of famous spots, but the real pleasure lies in slowly exploring the lesser-known gems. Here’s DK Eyewitness Project Editor Tijana Todorinović’s guide to 48 hours in the Eternal City, off the beaten track.

Rome Like a Local

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When in Rome, do as the Romans do: start your Friday evening gossiping over an aperitivo, a drink served alongside a side of (free) nibbles. You can expect to find this at most bars from 6pm, usually for about an hour or so, but for a more trendy setting head to Salotto 42 in the city centre, where well-priced cocktails are served among plush interiors. After a drink or two, head down to cool San Lorenzo’s own old-school piano bar, La Conventicola Degli Ultramoderni. You can easily stay here sipping cocktails until the early hours, while characterful acts on stage perform burlesque and play classic Italian tunes (to which the locals seemingly know all the words).

If you begin the morning a little bleary-eyed after a busy Friday night, few things will wake you up quite like the classic Roman morning combination of a strong espresso served with a sweet cornetto (filled croissant-like pastry). Most local cafes will serve both, which Romans quickly enjoy standing at the counter, and some of the tastiest pastries can be found at the elegant Pasticceria Gruè. This combo can also be enjoyed at one of the coffee institutions in the city, the Sant' Eustachio Il Caffè; instead of a counter-service, espressos here are sipped at tables in the historic square. For an alternative to the cornetto, try an equally sweet and delicious cream-filled maritozzo at a specialist bakery like Pasticceria Regoli.

Once you’re fuelled and woken up, it’s time to hit the art collections. Of course, the greats like the vast Vatican Museums and unique Borghese Gallery are truly not to be missed. But, if you’re looking for less-known alternatives (or you didn’t manage to book a ticket to either of these popular collections ahead of your trip), there are plenty of alternative displays to discover. Can’t decide between the classics and the modern? Chiostro del Bramante is a great spot: the historic building is beautiful to see and usually filled with contemporary exhibitions, as well as housing a bookshop and a cafe. For a dose of art on a budget, the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Vittoria is the place to see some of the Italian sculptor Bernini’s best works for free, while the contemporary art museum known as MACRO is an excellent cultural hub that’s also free to visit.

This is a city that knows how to do great street food. There are almost too many beloved venues to choose from, but steaming, doughy bites at Trapizzino or crispy Roman pizzas from Forno Campo de 'Fiori always hit the spot. Both places have a queue of hungry locals and tourists alike any day of the week, and they’re definitely well-worth the wait. Once the goods are secured, don’t venture too far from the shop to enjoy them – it’s likely that you’ll want to get back in the queue for seconds.

Spend the evening strolling the streets of the historic centre and soaking up the beautiful buildings. The piazzas in particular are where locals hang out in the warmer evenings (of which there are many). Grab a drink from a nearby bar or shop and spend time in one of the more popular spots like Piazza Campo de’Fiori, Piazza di Santa Maria or Piazza di San Calisto. The latter is located next to the famously well-priced Bar San Calisto, a classic spot for a tipple. For a little evening pick-me-up, make your way to one of the many gelateria for a sweet, icy scoop of gelato. Otaleg in Trastevere and Monteverde has great flavours that will leave you coming back for more.

Embody the sprezzatura of the city and enjoy your Sunday outdoors. Rent a bike and spend a few hours cycling around the tall stone pines of the beautiful Villa Borghese gardens. The Passeggiata del Pincio terrace is a great place to take a break and enjoy a panorama view of the city – among other buildings, the great dome of St Peter’s Basilica can be seen clearly from here.

Afterwards, head over to the area of Trastevere for a stroll through its winding, cobbled streets. There are plenty of cafes and bars to stop at along the way, as well as bookshops to explore – the Open Door Bookshop is a treasure trove of second-hand books in English and other languages to really get lost in.

No trip to Rome is complete without a delicious plate of pasta, and where better to enjoy it than one of its oldest restaurants? Unassuming Ristorante la Campana on Vicolo della Campana has been open in some form since 1518, and today it serves delicious, comforting Roman classics.

Finish off the weekend watching the sunset from one of the city’s ancient seven hills. The beautiful Capitoline Hill is a great spot, home to Michelangelo’s famous Piazza del Campidoglio where you can end the day with a drink.

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