Great British Baking Show has popularized baking to no end. Supermarkets and retailers have reported huge surges in demand for all manner of tools and ingredients, from spatulas and cake tins to icing sugar and self-raising flour. But Britain hasn’t always been such a keen baking nation, and even just 15 years ago interest in baking was significantly lower than it is today.
Now baking has made a comeback, we think it’s time some of these long lost British bakes also graced our ovens once again.
Now baking has made a comeback, we think it’s time some of these long lost British bakes also graced our ovens once again.
Maids of Honour
One of Britain’s greatest eaters in history is the notorious King Henry VIII. A rather rotund man, he was famous for throwing wild banquets with extravagant foods – particularly his coronation celebration in 1509, which was said to have been 'greater than any Caesar had known'.
But Maids of Honour are one of the few dishes he refused to share with the world. The story goes that while visiting Anne Boleyn in her chambers one night, he found her with her maids eating sweet, delicate pastries made from cheese curd. He tried one, declared them ‘Maids of Honour’ and swiftly confiscated the recipe ensuring they could be for royal consumption only.
The amount of truth in this story is somewhat disputed by food historians, but it’s true that Maids of Honour have been rather lacking from traditional British bakeries in the last century. Except, that is, in Richmond, where 18th-century baker Robert Newens had a shop which served the delicious tartlets. Today, the modern Newens Bakery can be found in Kew where Maids of Honour are still baked to this day.
But Maids of Honour are one of the few dishes he refused to share with the world. The story goes that while visiting Anne Boleyn in her chambers one night, he found her with her maids eating sweet, delicate pastries made from cheese curd. He tried one, declared them ‘Maids of Honour’ and swiftly confiscated the recipe ensuring they could be for royal consumption only.
The amount of truth in this story is somewhat disputed by food historians, but it’s true that Maids of Honour have been rather lacking from traditional British bakeries in the last century. Except, that is, in Richmond, where 18th-century baker Robert Newens had a shop which served the delicious tartlets. Today, the modern Newens Bakery can be found in Kew where Maids of Honour are still baked to this day.
Stargazy pie
Actually, perhaps we don’t want this one to make a comeback. This rather ghastly looking pie has an intriguing folk tale surrounding it. Supposedly created by a fisherman called Tom Bawcock, who saved the village of Mousehole from starvation during violent storms by risking his life on the ocean to find enough fish to feed them all. So the tale goes, he returned with seven types of fish which went into a pie.
Historically, the pie was made with pilchards, whose heads poke through the pastry top to give it the name, ‘stargazey pie’. Inside is a white, creamy sauce with grated boiled egg. Unsurprisingly, the dish fell out of favour with Brits eventually and today is rarely seen on menus or in homes, which might have something to do with the eyes. However, London’s Fullers pubs have served the dish on their pie menus in the past, and The Ship Inn in Mousehole still celebrates ‘Tom Bawcock eve’ every 23rd December, to mark the moment the pie came into existence.
Historically, the pie was made with pilchards, whose heads poke through the pastry top to give it the name, ‘stargazey pie’. Inside is a white, creamy sauce with grated boiled egg. Unsurprisingly, the dish fell out of favour with Brits eventually and today is rarely seen on menus or in homes, which might have something to do with the eyes. However, London’s Fullers pubs have served the dish on their pie menus in the past, and The Ship Inn in Mousehole still celebrates ‘Tom Bawcock eve’ every 23rd December, to mark the moment the pie came into existence.
Bedfordshire clanger
If you think this looks rather like an untidy sausage roll, you wouldn’t be far wrong. The Bedfordshire clanger, also known as a Trowley dumpling or Hertfordshire clanger, was a favourite among farmers in the 1700s. Women would boil or bake a clanger – a suet pastry roll with a savoury filling in one end and sweet in the other – for their husbands working in the fields. An easy lunch for working men – a bit like Cornwall’s pasties – it was supremely popular right through to the early 1900s.
Today, though, it’s something of a rarity and if you want to try one, you’ll have to go to Bedford itself. Here, Gunns Bakery is one of the last proud makers of the Bedfordshire clanger, offering up modern versions like Indian spiced vegetables and refreshing mango, or pork shoulder with sage and cider, finished off with Granny Smith apples and brown sugar at the other end.
Today, though, it’s something of a rarity and if you want to try one, you’ll have to go to Bedford itself. Here, Gunns Bakery is one of the last proud makers of the Bedfordshire clanger, offering up modern versions like Indian spiced vegetables and refreshing mango, or pork shoulder with sage and cider, finished off with Granny Smith apples and brown sugar at the other end.
Cumberland rum nicky
A pie that has actually been endorsed by Paul Hollywood – it starred as the technical challenge during a GBBS episode in 2017 – the Cumberland rum nicky is a very boozy British dessert. Originating from the Lake District during the 17th century, when exciting new ingredients were arriving from the Caribbean by boat, it’s filled with dates, crystallised ginger and dried apricots, soaked in enough rum to keep even Mary Berry or Prue Leith happy.
As with many historical dishes, there’s a folk tale surrounding this pie’s naming too. Some say it’s so-called because pirates used to nick (steal) rum to preserve fruit on their ships, whereas Paul Hollywood thinks it might come from the practice of slicing ‘nicks’ in the pastry top to let the steam out. Ultimately, though, none of that really matters when you’ve a hot plate of pie with rum butter on the side.
As with many historical dishes, there’s a folk tale surrounding this pie’s naming too. Some say it’s so-called because pirates used to nick (steal) rum to preserve fruit on their ships, whereas Paul Hollywood thinks it might come from the practice of slicing ‘nicks’ in the pastry top to let the steam out. Ultimately, though, none of that really matters when you’ve a hot plate of pie with rum butter on the side.
Eat more with DK Eyewitness Great Britain
If food is your motivator, our Great Britain guide has plenty to keep you satiated. Turn to p26 for a round up of our favourite British food experiences, and p30 for an intoxicating look at Britain by the glass.
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