Exploring Thailand’s underrated wellness capital Bangkok

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Lucie Grace explores health and wellness in Bangkok.

Thailand's gargantuan capital is one of the region's most fast-paced and hectic. But glance beneath the surface and you'll find one of the most varied wellness scenes in southeast Asia. There is no denying Bangkok’s lively reputation; like so many capitals it attracts people from across the country, and indeed the world, who work hard and play hard.

But to pigeonhole the metropolis solely as the home of the beer-fuelled chaos of Khao San Road, or the crowded canals of the floating markets is a big mistake – the city is home to an impressive amount of world class spas and clinics that are guaranteed to rejuvenate even the most exhausted traveller.

The undeniably magnetic element of Bangkok’s wellness scene is the diversity of treatments on offer; it’s a global business centre and has resident communities from all over the planet, including the second oldest Chinatown, which goes back as far as the creation of the city itself. Consequently, there’s so much more to experience than just the revered and exported Thai massage – though there's no better treatment to start off your Bangkok health journey.
Searching for ‘Bangkok’s best massage’ online will reap thousands of results across a vast spectrum of quality. Last year, when I first moved to Thailand, I was given a pro tip from a masseuse friend: head to the temples. The temples, known as Wat in Thai, are the longest established Thai massage outlets and provide training as well as expert practitioners.

Wat Pho on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is generally accepted as being the finest and has two branches, one physically within the grounds and one outpost over the street on Maha Rat Road, for those not going to the temple.

I went for a 90 minute Thai massage with a therapist inside Wat Pho’s walls, changing into the loose fitting clothes, ready for a treatment that isn’t necessarily relaxing but certainly untwists any knots in my muscles. I always ask for light pressure – “bao bao” meaning softly in Thai – but face some functional pain no matter what. Wat Po’s team are exemplary though, so getting through it with some deep breaths is very much worthwhile.
My real deep dive into the range of Bangkok’s healthy treats begins on my second visit to the city, as I decide to carve out a weekend for solid relaxation and am floored by the international treatments available. First I discover Thailand’s premiere Japanese style spa, Yunomori Onsen, which uses water sourced directly from the thermal springs of Wat Wangkanai in Kanchanaburi. The warm, sacred waters are pumped over 100km to Bangkok, with mineral contents that detoxify the body. Yunomori has seven different pools to soak in, ranging from the hot to very cold.

On arrival I swap my shoes for slippers then pay at the counter for a head massage as well as onsen entry, of course. Massage aside it’s 500 TBH (roughly £12) to enter the onsen pools – an undeniable bargain. Like in Japan, women and men bathe in separate zones, but in Thailand the reception staff distribute disposable bathing wear – much more modest than the naked Japanese experience. After a few rotations around the medium, then hot, then cold pools, with a couple of stops in the sauna for good measure, I am completely cleansed, all worldly stresses forgotten.
The next day I arrange more detox treatments, starting at a Korean spot, Su Esthetic Home Spa. It’s a cute place, in an elegantly decorated house in Bangkok's Sukhumvit neighbourhood. I book a salt scrub with rice milk, which is surprisingly fragrant, then a stomach massage that is exactly as expected; pressure applied to the abdomen that improves digestion.

My final stop of the day is for acupuncture with the best Chinese medics in town – The Mandarin Clinic, also in Sukhumvit. As a writer, “office syndrome” aka sore shoulders, is an occupational hazard and the gentle needle work of the practitioners here goes a great way in softening mine.

Bathing in bran has got to be one of my favourite treatments ever for its place at the top of the unusual scale. While big in Japan, there are few places that offer it outside the island nation but At Ease Thai Massage in Sukhumvit is one of those that do. A Rice Bran Enzyme bath has great health benefits, boosting both metabolism and immunity. I rest in a box, covered up to my neck in bran. It’s a sweat box that’s for sure, perspiration flowing as toxins leave my body. It soothes my muscles, but it’s also incredibly nourishing for the skin, which has never felt so soft.
My third attempt at spa life in the capital begins at Thailand’s most loved, luxury name, Anantara Riverside Bangkok. There’s two branches of the sumptuous, five star chain in town and over 50 across the world.

Now that Thailand is the first country in Asia to have legalised the use and trade of cannabis, a number of Anantara’s in-house spas are offering a range of extremely relaxing treatments that use cannabis infused massage oils – the first spas in the country to do so.

I go for one of their dreamy Restful Slumber Journey and certainly feel incredibly mellow afterwards, my skin smelling delicious. More importantly, cannabis is rich in antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds and pain reducing properties – Anantara spas are making the most of the medicinal uses of cannabis that have been adopted across Asia for centuries.

Before departing the next day, I head over to sister branch, Anantara Siam Bangkok whose in-house IV Drip Bar, Vivid, has a huge menu of solution bags full of vitamin and mineral brews, designed to target, boost and support the body’s organs. Being hooked up to an IV Drip in the name of wellness might sound a bit extreme but these treatments are increasingly common at high end resorts and spas.

The extensive, colourful menu at Vivid also includes a ‘Myers’ Cocktail’ drip – a jet lag remedy would be a great first pitstop after a long haul flight. I go for an energy booster solution and sit back in the comfy armchair while the nurse effortlessly pops in a cannula and hooks me up to the drip. I certainly feel the effects, my eyes are brighter and thoughts clearer, a seamless win, all in all.
To cement my theory that Bangkok is the top destination in Thailand for R&R, I visit the best of the best, Rakxa Wellness & Medical Retreat, in the lungs of the city; the leafy green Bang Krachao district. The ultra luxurious, holistic retreat approaches every guest’s needs individually and I have a personal consultation with one of the wellness team on arrival, establishing a tailored programme for my stay. The prognosis: I need a long overdue rest.

Rakxa adopts a methodology of preventative treatment and promotes self care across physical, emotional, mental and spiritual well being – so nipping any stress, ailments and bad habits in the bud is the modus operandi here. I’m checked in to one of the airy, chic villas, then have lunch tailored to my diet. I’m most excited about visiting the hydrotherapy pools in Rakxa Jai, the spa facility; the hot, cold and jacuzzi pools are neighboured by a Finnish sauna, Turkish hammam and steam room, all of which have incredible views of the Bang Krachao lagoon.
The highlight of my stay at Rakxa, and it’s honestly hard to pick just one, is the Floatation Treatment in the completely tranquil sensory deprivation tub. The “tub” is a shallow, circular pool full of salt water, which I’m guided into by the therapist, who makes sure the floating pillow is supporting my head fully before she dims the lights and plays a gong, encouraging any stress and negative thoughts to float away into the water. The hour flies by and I’ve never felt so blissful post-bathe, musing over the absolutely heavenly experience.

It’s the perfect end to my explorations into the spas, retreats and clinics in the capital, which I leave bright eyed, with a soothed soul. Historically, Bangkok is the last place I would’ve slated for R&R, not associating it with physical and existential relaxation at all, but now this eclectic range of healing possibilities have made it a priority destination any time a city break is due – there’s truly nowhere else in Thailand that stands up to it for wellness.

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