Forget cherry blossom season and the sticky humidity of summer, fall is a magical time to visit Japan, bringing opportunities to celebrate Halloween on the streets of Shibuya, relax in historic hot spring baths, enjoy warming seasonal delicacies, and so much more.
The weather
Though the annual wave of typhoons may occasionally put a windy damper on proceedings, October, November and even early December bring magical weather. A welcome reprieve from the heat and humidity of summer, fall days are warm and the nights are cool, and on the whole the weather stays dry.
October promises reliably sunny days, making it the perfect month to hike comfortably in Nikko National Park and without a doubt one of the best times to visit Nara, where over 1,200 tame deer roam Nara Park. By the end of the month, you’ll be able to enjoy Nara’s famous fall foliage without the crowds of November when the spectacle is at its peak.
Leafy walks
Like the cherry blossoms of spring, koyo (fall leaves) are an important part of the Japanese calendar, drawing large numbers to famous koyo spots across the country. To walk under a canopy of bright yellow leaves in Tokyo head to Ginkgo Avenue in Meiji-Jingu Gaien Park or the Avenue of Ginkgo Trees at the University of Tokyo.
In Kyoto, the fiery scarlet maples at Eikando Temple have people queuing for hours, while less-crowded options can be found away from the cities, including the Fuji Five Lakes near Mount Fuji and the wilds of Daisetsuzan National Park in Hokkaido.
Festivals
Beyond viewing nature’s beauty, there are plenty of things to see and do in fall. This season heralds a packed calendar of events such as Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri in late October, which features a parade of more than 2,000 people representing figures from Japanese history. The Grand Autumn Festival held in mid-October at Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine includes yabusame horseback archery displays as well as a parade of 1,000 fully armoured samurai. On Halloween, revellers hit the streets of Shibuya in Tokyo for a raucous fancy-dress street party.
Seasonal food
There is plenty to eat in fall too, as seasonal treats like prized matsutake mushrooms hit the menu. Characterised by a distinct spicy-aromatic odour, these mushrooms are usually grilled to bring out all their earthiness, steamed with rice as matsutake gohan, and served along with shrimp, chicken and gingko nuts in dobin-mushi, a clear soup steamed in a small teapot.
By the end of November, it begins to get cool enough to start enjoying nabemono (hotpot) or nabe for short. Traditionally, this comforting winter staple is eaten by groups sitting around the gas burner on which the dish bubbles. Kotogaume, owned by a former sumo wrestler, is one of the best places in Tokyo to sample nabe.
Hot spring bathing
As the days get colder, it’s tradition to head to the bathhouses and hot-springs to warm up and wind down. As one of the most active volcanic regions in the world, onsen are everywhere you look in Japan so you won’t have trouble finding a spot to relax. The Dogo Onsen Honkan in Matsuyama is a famous hot-spring spa that has been in use for over a millennium. Deeper into the forest behind this historic bathhouse is Oku-Dogo Onsen, a newer hotel resort area.
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