Tokyo has made a name for itself by perfecting the balancing act of honouring the past, while leaning into the future. Though the city is ultramodern – peppered with glittering skyscrapers, and saturated with cutting-edge technology – timeless traditions and temples remain, unaltered by the forward march of modern life.

Old school bathhouses are tucked away behind laundromats or stores dedicated to sneakers, and age-old tea traditions are practiced by serene masters while youngsters stalk the streets outside, preoccupied with an augmented reality. Testaments to the city’s rich history and spirituality are never too far away, inviting Tokyoites to experience precious moments of Zen in a city that never stops.

Writer Emmie Harrison-West shares a guide on the best way to explore Tokyo’s shrines and temples like a local.

Tokyo Like a Local

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Avoid the bustling crowds of tourists and head on over to Sensoji Temple in Asakusa first thing – soon-to-be plastered over every Tokyo-visitor’s Instagram account. It’s no secret, but it is the city’s oldest and most significant temple – made lively and worth a visit by its festivals. During Sanja Festival in May, which celebrates the founders of the temple, portable shrines parade the streets, with food stalls and drum-banging revellers cutting through packed crowds.

Then, be sure to visit the Nezu Shrine in Bunkyo – especially from April to May when the azalea festival brings in crowds of flora and fauna-loving locals to marvel at the shrine’s blooms. The festival is entirely unbeknownst to tourists, who are desperate to grab a shot of this shrine, with its rows of vermilion torii gates resembling Kyoto’s iconic Inari Shrine.

Next, visit the perfect example of madness and tranquility working in harmony at Togo Shrine – a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Harajuku. The oasis of calm boasts the occasional office worker late from lunch, or on-trend mom with pram and scores of bags, desperate for a much-needed moment of bliss.

Be sure to visit the Yasukuni Shrine in spring to join the crowds of post-office workers dancing to an imaginary beat (Japan’s ‘no dancing’ law was only lifted in 2015) against a backdrop of mesmerising, swaying cherry blossoms. 

Though the Yasukuni Shrine is one of Japan’s most controversial landmarks – it was created as part of an arguably egotistical move by Emperor Meiji in 1869 after millions lost their lives to him in the Meiji era – locals still drink, dine and dance on the regal grounds. Perhaps to celebrate tranquility and freedom after an era of chaos, in honour of their ancestors.

Is there another nation that celebrates the feline in quite the same way as Japan? Your visit to the Gotokuji Temple will prove that there’s definitely not… Tokyo is home to none other than a ‘lucky cat’ temple – and that’s Gotokuji in Setagaya, populated by thousands of rows of staring, white-pawed maneki neko figurines.

All of the waving cats have been offered up by visitors, and yet still remain relatively unknown to most tourist circles. Gotokuji is famous locally with cat lovers who could tell you a thing or two about maneki neko origins (like the fact that it’s Japanese, not Chinese as many mistakenly believe). But don’t leave without buying your own to take home, not before saying a prayer, or offering it up to the temple. If you do take it home, it’s considered polite to bring it back once your wish has come true.

Finish the day of ‘temple fatigue’ by visiting the Akagi Shrine, in Shinjuku, overlooked by tourists but loved by locals. Inspired in design by Kengo Kuma, who built the 2020 Olympic Stadium, the shrine is sleek and modern, and offers a rare glimpse into the future of Tokyo’s temples. 

Be sure to round off your visit with dinner at the Akagi Cafe, with the backdrop of French music penetrating the illuminated shrine’s beauty, and ponder over the rare architectural innovation’s role in the future of spirituality.