In this exclusive extract from Where to Go When Great Britain and Ireland, we explore the wind-battered castles, sweeping sea views and endless empty beaches that make the Northumbrian coast an enticing winter getaway...
Where to Go When Great Britain and Ireland
View BookBreathtakingly expansive, Northumberland’s coast can make you feel like you’re standing on the edge of the world. The epic dune-backed bays that stretch as far as the eye can see can be completely empty in winter, even on a sunny weekend morning. If this lonely landscape can be bleak, especially when a dense haar (sea mist) rolls in, it’s also compelling – not least because there are atmospheric coastal castles to explore.
For a bracing yomp, follow the sea-battered shore from picture-perfect Craster village to the skeletal ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, 2 km (1 mile) north. This once mighty 14th-century fortress fell into disrepair after the War of the Roses and now stands as a reminder of the region’s tumultuous past. Continue along the bay for a pint at The Ship Inn at Low Newton-by-the-Sea: a worthy reward for your efforts.
For another dramatic coastal ramble, consult the tide tables (Northumbrian tides can be treacherous) and, when safe, pick your way out across the sands and mudflats to Holy Island – an endless line of wooden poles marks the way. This serene, isolated place was one of the earliest outposts of Christianity in England, and the monastery established here in 635 grew to become one of Europe’s great centres of learning.
The richly decorated ruins of its descendant, 12th-century Lindisfarne Priory, give panoramic views across to Lindisfarne Castle – a fairytale fortress, perched atop a rocky crag, and a fitting icon for this spectacular coastline.
The richly decorated ruins of its descendant, 12th-century Lindisfarne Priory, give panoramic views across to Lindisfarne Castle – a fairytale fortress, perched atop a rocky crag, and a fitting icon for this spectacular coastline.
There are more castles in Northumberland than any other English county. One not to miss is Alnwick Castle. You might recognize the towering ramparts of England’s largest inhabited castle outside Windsor from its starring role in the first two Harry Potter films. Explore its opulent State Rooms and then head next door to wondrous Alnwick Garden, lit up with a mesmerizing light trail at Christmas.
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