Andrea Strafile rounds up his favourite cafés and vermouth bars in the Spanish capital.
Last time I was in Madrid, I was pleasantly surprised at how many places there were for a good specialty coffee. In just a few years, the hipster cafés serving excellent coffee and comforting cakes have multiplied, making Madrid a mecca for coffee nerds and those who live the café lifestyle in a more responsible, sustainable and tasteful way. In short: filter coffee and pan y tomate (Spanish bread and tomato) has become one of my all-time favourite breakfasts.
But while the new cafeteria concept is advancing, in a country where gastronomy has always been novel and avant-garde, the beauty of Madrid is also the vast number of traditional places. To me those places are the iconic and beautiful vermuterias that animate the Spanish capital every night, serving as sincere and immortal meeting places since Hemingway's time.
Last time I was in Madrid, I was pleasantly surprised at how many places there were for a good specialty coffee. In just a few years, the hipster cafés serving excellent coffee and comforting cakes have multiplied, making Madrid a mecca for coffee nerds and those who live the café lifestyle in a more responsible, sustainable and tasteful way. In short: filter coffee and pan y tomate (Spanish bread and tomato) has become one of my all-time favourite breakfasts.
But while the new cafeteria concept is advancing, in a country where gastronomy has always been novel and avant-garde, the beauty of Madrid is also the vast number of traditional places. To me those places are the iconic and beautiful vermuterias that animate the Spanish capital every night, serving as sincere and immortal meeting places since Hemingway's time.
Ruda
Nestled in a sheltered street, Ruda is a small and peaceful oasis a stone's throw from La Latina metro station. Besides serving one of the best pan y tomate in Madrid, this café also offers a wide variety of coffee, including many that are impeccably roasted by the owner, Ana Nunez, herself. This is a great place to drink a perfect filter coffee made with Chemex or V60, but also, for the more casual coffee drinker, to sample some excellent flat whites.
Misiòn Café
The vibrant Malasana district is increasingly frequented by young travellers thanks to its central location near the Gran Via. Here you’ll find one of the coolest specialty cafés in Madrid, Mision Café. Not just a place to drink a great specialty coffee, Mision Café is an inviting and inclusive environment meaning you won’t feel out of place even if you don’t know your AeroPress from your Chemex. Excellent pastries and simple fast food make this a great place to go when you want something fresh and authentic for lunch.
Urbano Specialty Coffee
If you’re in Madrid and new to the world of specialty coffee then Urbano is the perfect place for you. This café is cosy and unpretentious, with friendly staff and a bakery that makes incredibly good bread. The choice of coffee won’t blow you away – 'The Barn', a famous roastery in Berlin, is at home here – but their avocado toast with egg on top is first-rate.
Bodega de la Ardosa
Would you like to experience the true atmosphere of the Madrid aperitif surrounded by locals and glasses of vermouth? Well, there's no better place than Bodega de la Ardosa on Calle de Colòn – be careful because there's another vermouth bar under the same name. Trust the red facade!
For decades, from afternoon until after dinner, this packed out place has served rivers of beers and vermouths at lightning speed. You also drink and eat behind the bar, next to the kitchen! The potato tortilla – at a more than reasonable price – is addictive.
For decades, from afternoon until after dinner, this packed out place has served rivers of beers and vermouths at lightning speed. You also drink and eat behind the bar, next to the kitchen! The potato tortilla – at a more than reasonable price – is addictive.
Casa Gamacho
Full of history and stories, with legendary characters like the three brothers Jesus, Santiago and Miguel Gonzalez Pérez, who have been serving tapas and vermouth behind their counter for 50 years, Casa Gamacho is a legendary place in Madrid. Besides traditional tapas such as pimientos, you can also find an original cocktail that can only be found here: the 'Yayos', a house special made of vermouth, gin and soda.
Taberna La Carmencita
Among the oldest taverns in Madrid is this gem in the Chueca district. At Taberna La Carmencita you can taste some of the best brands of vermouth accompanied by lots of Spanish and Madrid tapas: from breakfast to after dinner you can sample more than 70 traditional tapas to experience Madrid like a true local.
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